In the vicinity of Jaisalmer, about 17 km away from Baramsar village, there is a place rich in cultural, social, and religious significance. The importance of this place is upheld by its usage of space, its location, and the belief system of the people. This site is one of the oldest religious places, dating back to the 8th and 9th centuries. It features an ancient Mahadev-Bhuteshwar temple and a saint’s residence, known as math, which is a spot for dhyan (meditation) and sadhana (spiritual practice). It is also notable for being where Sant Kabir spent a significant portion of his life in meditation. Additionally, the site includes the Padamavati Mahal or Jahaj Mahal, a royal complex located to the west. In the month of Baisakh, on the full moon day every year, a ritual is observed in Jaisalmer where a huge number of devotees visit from areas such as Jodhpur, Ramdevra, Pokaran, etc. Girls worship the Khejri tree for 15-20 days leading up to the full moon. Each morning, they water the Khejri tree as part of their worship.

This place is best known for its water system, which includes a taalab known as Baramsarovar, kund, baavdi, and beri. It is believed that a river called Kak, previously known as Saraswati used to flow in this area. The water of the Saraswati River is highly valued, similar to the water of the River Ganga. The river and the taalab serve as recharge points for this water system, allowing the water to percolate and seep down to the Bentonite/Gypsum layer, enabling the kund and baavdi to have water year-round. Both Hindus and Jains made significant contributions to architecture. A prime example is found in Jaisalmer, following the pattern of the Osia group. Other important monuments from this period in Jaisalmer were built along the Kak River. The art and architecture of both feature intricate designs and patterns throughout the complex

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Site Plan of the Baisakhi complex_©Google earth image edit by Author

Baramsarovar Talab is a picturesque setting with multitudes of Chhatris and Goedhan adorning its surroundings. These intricate structures are crafted from a single Jaisalmer stone and are adorned with carvings of Hindu deities, each accompanied by detailed inscriptions about their origins and creators. The presence of Gordhan near every water body in Jaisalmer adds to the charm of the area, serving as a cultural symbol and a testament to the significance of water in the region. The temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is located within a western-facing enclosure. The shrine, which originated during the Pratihar period, was later renovated in the latter half of the 16th century.

The Sandhar temple is a stunning structure characterised by a square cell surrounded by pillared corridors known as Bhramantika. The square pillars, though unadorned, provide sturdy support and are topped by a single roll bracket and a carefully carved lintel featuring half-lotus designs on both faces. Inside, the ceiling is mostly flat, except for the central bay which showcases four circular courses ending in an exquisite lotus design with a suspended padmakesar at its centre. Moving towards the sanctum doorway, one can observe a single offset entrance carved with a delightful row of flowers within a square. The crest figure adorning the entrance is that of the esteemed deity, Ganesh. Inside the sanctum, alongside the lingam, two remarkable stone-carved figures are preserved. One depicts Uma Maheshwar, with Shiv depicted in armour and two arms, while the other portrays Shiv with four arms, holding his customary attributes in his upper arms, while the lower right arm rests on an armrest.

The sanctum wall (3.12x 2.95 metres); the object of primary importance; is tri-ratha with low socle mouldings of which details are lost, the jangha (wall) conspicuously plain is full wall paintings added additional charm to the interiors of the ornamental upper stories when intact. Jahajmahal, a wonderful structure of 1815 on account of its elevation, altogether unique in conception, is aptly the symbol of the creative architectural genius of Diwan Salim singh, who was branded a wicked prime Minister for his intriguing activities throughout his office tenure, detrimental to the interest of the state.

In today’s time, it is possible that the traditional reservoirs (kund, baavdi) are not receiving enough water to replenish themselves due to improper routing and mismanagement of natural drainage and catchment areas. The natural water flow has been obstructed in various ways, which is preventing these reservoirs from getting as much water as they used to. Currently, these reservoirs are mostly being filled by tankers from the Indira Gandhi Canal.

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Baramsarovar, Baisakhi_©Author
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Krishna Kund and Bhuteshwar Shiva temple behind the Kund, Baisakhi_©Author
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Radha Kund, Baisakhi_©Author
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Kund Behind the Shiv temple_©Author
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Dharmbaari court, Baisakhi_©Author
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Jahaj Mahal also known as Padmavati Mahal_©The Desert Flowers page on Facebook

Reference list:

Manchanda, B. (2001). Jaisalmer – City of golden sands and strange spirits. Harper Collins, India: Publisher

Nand, S. (1990). Art & Architecture of Jaisalmer. Research Publishers: Publisher

 

Author

She is an architect from Mathura with a strong interest in heritage conservation, adaptive reuse, urban regeneration, and research. She graduated from Dayalbagh Educational Institute, Agra. She has previously worked as a volunteer in different regions of India. She has a keen interest in social engagement activities, as well as research and writing skills. As an architect, she has realized that her objective extends beyond creating new designs to include conserving heritage and contributing to the well-being of future generations.